Last updated on September 28th, 2022 at 12:56 pm
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Have you ever wanted a matching outfit for a doll? Well, now you can by learning how to digitally scale patterns for projecting!
Digitally scaling patterns will allow you to quickly cutout patterns in smaller or larger sizes that come drafted in the pattern. This works especially well for items such as doll clothing, bag patterns, and accessories.
A word of caution: Digitally scaling doesn’t make up for correctly drafting patterns for various sizes. Patterns are not “uniformly” scaled when going up or down in a size. There is a lot that goes into pattern drafting for different sizes.
This does work in a pinch or for items that don’t necessarily need a good “fit”! Not all pattern companies have bundles like the Be Dreamy dress that comes in a kid size and doll size. Now you can scale a pattern and make your own!
There are two main ways you can scale a pattern up or down. The first is by visually scaling when projecting the pattern and zooming until you have the desired size. The second method is to use just a little bit of math and the zoom percentage.
How to Visually Scale a Pattern for Projecting
To visually scale a pattern for projecting, you will need the item you are wanting to scale the pattern to fit. For example, if you are making doll clothing, you need the doll. Or, if you are making a bag, such as the Olibeli Backpack by Ellie and Mac; then have the items you want to fit inside the bag.
Having the item will help you to visually discern the size of the pattern. When making doll clothing, place the doll or stuffie on the cutting table. Project the pattern over the doll until it looks like the outfit will “fit” the doll. Don’t forget to account for seam allowance!
Make note of the zoom percent (in case you have to stop and come back later!). Then, cut out the pattern that you have visually scaled!
*It helps to use a pattern that is as close to the desired size as possible. When making doll clothing, I suggest using a preemie, newborn, or baby size pattern.
How to Digitally Scale a Pattern Using Zoom
To digitally scale a pattern using zoom, you will need to be working on a computer that allows you to input a zoom percentage. This is not available on most apps for phones and tablets when pattern projecting.
You will need to know your accurate calibration zoom percent and the percent that you want to increase the pattern. For example, my calibrated zoom is 32% in Adobe. Let’s say I want to increase the size of my pattern by 125%.
This is where the math comes in, but don’t worry it is easy! You also have my permission to use a calculator 😉. Take you calibration zoom (32%) and multiply it by the percent increase or decrease (125%). When multiplying percent, convert to decimals first (Divide by 100 or just move the decimal to the LEFT two places). For example, I’d multiply 0.32 x 1.25 = 0.4
Then, convert back to a percent (just multiply by 100 or move the decimal two places to the right). My new digitally scaled zoom for the pattern would be 40%.
To increase the accuracy of scaled patterns, you will also need to adjust the seam allowance by the same percent.
In the example above, I increased my pattern by 125%. If the seam allowance on the original pattern was ½”, then I would need to multiply that by 125%.
0.5 x 1.25 = 0.625 which is 5/8”
Here are common decimals for reference!
¼” = 0.25
3/8” = 0.375
½” = 0.5
¾” = 0.75
5/8” = 0.625
Here is another example reducing the size of the pattern. Let’s say I want to reduce a pattern to 80%. I’d take my calibrated zoom percent (32%) and multiply it by 80%.
0.32 x 0.8 = 0.256 or 25.6%
Type the scaled zoom percent into Adobe (CTRL +Y) and you are ready to cut out your digitally scaled pattern! Before sewing, find your adjusted seam allowance. If the original pattern used 5/8” seam allowance, then multiply it by the adjusted percent (80%).
0.625 x 0.8 = 0.5 (1/2 inch)
My new seam allowance while sewing this pattern is ½ inch!
Final VERY Important Step
When you are done making your project, don’t forget to change the zoom back to your correct percent before cutting out your next project. Trust me! You won’t be happy with the fit of the next project if you forget! 😉
Conclusion
Now you are ready to tackle all the fun digitally scaled patterns for projector sewing! I see a lot of fun custom doll clothes, bags, and accessories in your future! Whether you visually scale patterns or use the zoom percent to scale, you will have a quick way to get the size you need faster than finding a new pattern! Happy sewing!
